In this video you will learn how to apply binding on an Angrakha.
Binding ensures that the edges of your garment are protected, while also giving it a tidy finish.
To learn how to make the pattern and cut the fabric, watch the previous videos.
To stitch an Angrakha, you will need: Your Cut Fabric A Sewing Machine Thread A Measuring Tape A pair of Scissors And some Pins
This video can split into three different steps.
The first step is to secure the edges of the left panel.
1 - The Left Panel
Spread out the fabric that has been cut for the left panel on top of the table and fold its raw edge a third of an inch towards the back surface of the garment, as shown.
This edge will remain protected and unseen under the overlap of the right panel, so it does not require binding.
Place one end of the fold under the needle, aligned just inside of the raw edge.
Start with a reverse stitch and continue in a straight line.
When you reach the end of the fold, reverse stitch a second time to ensure that the thread stays secure.
Cut the extra thread.
Make sure your stitch is at a uniform distance from the edge.
Now, place a strip of bias tape against the back surface of the left panel, aligned to the raw edge of the neckline, as shown.
Start stitching less than a quarter of an inch from the edge, along the neckline.
If you don’t feel comfortable with curve stitching, train yourself with the video ‘how to make proper stitches’.
Adjust the bias tape as you move along the curve of the neckline.
Cut the thread and the remaining bias tape.
Flip the fabric over to the face side and finger-press the stitch so that it settles in the fabric.
Now, fold the free edge of the bias tape inward against the face side of the fabric, as shown, such that it forms a double-folded binding.
Place one end of neckline under the needle.
Start by stitching from the corner along the width of the binding.
When you reach near the inner edge of the binding, stop stitching and let your needle down through the fabric.
Lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric by 90 degrees.
Now, lower your presser foot and continue to stitch along the length of the binding.
Adjust the binding and continue stitching.
Hold down the double-folded binding in place as you proceed.
The stitch has to be as close as possible to the inner edge of the binding to hold down the double-fold.
Cut the thread and any excess binding.
Ensure that your stitches are in place along the arc.
You are now ready for the second step: to secure the edges of the right panel.
Step 2 - The Right Panel.
Take your right panel and lay it on the table.
Place a strip of bias tape on the facing side, aligned with its inside edge, as followed earlier.
To make it easier, start stitching from the corner of the hem allowance, with the needle aligned less than quarter of an inch from the edge.
When you reach the first arc, adjust the bias tape so that it continues in its double-folded position along with the curve.
When you reach the end of the curve, trail the stitch off at the corner.
Cut the thread and the remaining bias tape.
As did before, fold the free edge of the bias tape inward against the face side of the fabric to make a double folded binding.
Place the beginning of the arc under the needle and stitch the binding in place.
Adjust and hold down the folds as you progress.
Take care when adjusting the binding along the corner where the arc ends.
Fold it down and set the binding to the angle of the perpendicular side.
Cut the thread and any excess bias tape once you reach the end.
Check along the stitch for any inconsistencies.
Now, repeat the same process along the neckline.
Repeat the process along the neckline.
This time, you will need to include an additional 10 inches of bias tape past the flap of the neckline.
These 10 inches will be stitched into a string that fastens the flap of the panel.
Include 10 inches of extra bias tape for a fastening string.
Measure the required length and cut the remaining bias tape.
Start stitching from the top of the neckline, aligning the two edges as you proceed.
Once the stitch has crossed the end of the neckline, trail off the edge of the bias tape as shown.
Finger press the stitch so that it settles in the fabric.
Once this is done, fold the bias tape against the face side of the fabric to make a double folded binding.
Place the beginning of the neckline arc under the needle and start stitching the binding in place.
Adjust the folds in place as you proceed.
Stop an inch before the end of the neckline.
Fold the remaining strip in the same double-fold of the binding to create the fastening string.
Make a reverse stitch and continue to stitch the extra 10 inches of double-folded bias tape.
Cut the thread and the remaining bias tape.
Check the stitch for consistency.
The string will be fastened to a second string that will be attached to the left panel.
You are now ready to apply binding on the back piece.
3 - The Back Piece .
Place a strip of bias tape against the back surface of the back piece, aligned to the raw edge of the neckline, as shown.
Hold the two layers in place as you proceed to stitch along the arc of the neckline.
When you reach the end, cut the thread and any excess binding strip.
To assimilate a thorough process, take care when holding down the folds and ensure consistent stitches.
Continue following the same method.
You have now learnt how to stitch the binding for an Angrakha.
To learn how to stitch together the parts of an Angrakha, watch the next video.
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