How to Stitch a Salwar: 2/5 Gathering

In this video you will learn how to gather fabric for a Salwar.

We shall do this by attaching a fitted waistband to the loosely gathered legs of the Salwar.

To learn how to stitch the waistband watch the previous video.

Open the two layers of the primary piece and spread it out on the table one on top of the other.

We shall start by joining the two layers along the crotch seam line.

Once you have aligned the two layers together, place the waist end of the crotch seam line under the needle and make a reverse stitch, before proceeding forward.

When you reach the other end, make a second reverse stitch before cutting the thread.

Open and spread out the legs of the salwar and the waistband on top of the table.

We shall first make a trial gathering to get an idea of how the primary piece and the waistband will be joined together.

Adjust the pieces so that their seams are aligned together.

Remember that we cut notches on the fold of each leg and a corresponding notch on the waistband.

We shall use it now to guide the gathers.

Starting from the seam, make gathers on the main fabric, until the corresponding notches are aligned.

Once this is done, beyond the notch, about 4 inches from the end of the primary piece, collect more gathers until the ends of both pieces are aligned.

Now that we know how the gathers will appear, we can proceed to stitch them.

Hold the facing sides of the two pieces against each other and align their seams and raw edges.

Make sure the seam allowances of the two pieces are in opposite directions before stitching.

Now, place the seams of the two pieces under the needle and join them together with just a couple of stitches.

Then, starting next to the seam, pinch a fold with the edge of the primary fabric and press it down, away from the seam.

Holding the first gather down with one finger, make a second one below the fold of the first.

Continue doing this until the notches are aligned.

If you face difficulty in holding down the gathers, stop and secure your work with pins.

Start stitching over the gathering, carefully holding the folds in place as they approach the needle.

Always make sure that the two layers of fabric are perfectly aligned.

Adjust your fabric and continue stitching past the gathers and the notch, till you reach about 4 inches before the end of the waistband.

Now, make a fresh set of gathers until the ends of both the pieces are aligned.

Proceed to stitch over the gathers and make a reverse stitch before stitching past the edge and cutting the thread.

Repeat the same process on the other side of the seam, keeping an eye out for symmetry.

This time, however, start stitching from the loose end of the fabric, working your way to the seam.

To do this, place the upper corner of the leg against the raw corner of the waistband were the notches coincided.

Once the corners are aligned, make a reverse stitch and go down till the notch.

Then, fold down the gathers in the direction of the stitch.

Before you stitch, make sure the notches of the primary piece and the waistband are aligned.

Proceed stitching past the notch.

When you are about 4 inches from the seam, make more gathers with the extra length of the primary piece.

Stitch over the gathering, past the seam and till the end of the first set of gathers you made.

Trail off the edge and cut the thread.

Make sure that you have a uniform stitch and that the notches are aligned.

You may now stitch the front crotch seam of the Salwar.

To do this, fold the Salwar in half, inside out.

Now, align the raw, unstitched edges along the crotch seam.

As before, make sure that coinciding seam allowances are stitched down facing opposite directions.

Once the edges are aligned, trail the stitch onto the crotch seam line from just below the casing.

Make a reverse stitch and proceed till the notch just past the crotch point.

Adjust the seam allowances of the waistband and the primary piece in opposite directions, if you haven’t done so already.

Make sure that the two layers of the fabric are aligned.

Double stitch when you reach the end at the notch mark and cut the thread.

Keep checking the alignment of the edges as you stitch.

Ensure that the stitch is uniform.

You have now learnt how to gather fabric for a Salwar.

Watch the next video to learn how to stitch the hem.