In this video you will learn how to make a pattern for the sleeve of a top.
To learn how to make the pattern for the front and back pieces, watch the previous video of this series.
Start by laying a pattern sheet flat on the table.
Remember that patterns are usually cut ‘on fold’ so they can be doubled over symmetrically.
Fold the pattern sheet in half along its length, to make a rectangle with two longer sides.
IF YOU WANT TO ADAPT THE SIZE OF YOUR SLEEVES, TAKE THE FOLLOWING.
MEASUREMENTS: UPPER ARM CIRCUMFERENCE SLEEVE LENGTH ARMHOLE DEPTH
We shall mark the following points, as illustrated, to create the basic layout of the design.
AH - SLEEVE LENGTH BH - HEM ALLOWANCE GE - CAP LINE AG - CAP HEIGHT
The top left corner of the folded pattern sheet has been represented by point A.
Along the folded edge, mark point B, 7 inches from A, to define the length of the sleeve, including the hem allowance.
AB = 7 inches .
Mark point C, 6 inches from A, along the upper edge, representing the armhole depth.
AC = 6 inches .
Shift the ruler further down, and mark point D, 6 inches from B and perpendicular to the fold.
BD = 6 inches .
Connect B to D by drawing a line between the two points.
Now, draw a line connecting C to D.
Mark point E, 2.5 inches from C, towards D, to define the cap height.
CE = 2.5 inches
Mark point F, an inch from D, towards Bl, to taper the sleeve.
FD = 1 inch.
Now, draw a line from E, running parallel to AC, that ends at a point G on AB.
Now, mark two points I and H, an inch inside hem allowance line, represented by BD.
Draw a line along the two points, extending it from end to end, from a point H to a point I.
HI defines the hemline.
Draw a line an inch from BD.
Now, draw a line connecting E to F.
We shall now draw the curve of the sleeve cap.
The sleeve cap is the curved line at the top of the sleeve that is sewn onto the armhole.
Starting from A, draw an arc to E, as shown, to define the back curve of the sleeve cap.
We shall now shade the hem area, and mark the side seam allowance.
Using a second colour, shade the hem area, as shown.
Now, mark several points half an inch outside the side seam line using a third colour.
Make a series of marks half an inch from EF.
Join the points with a dotted line and shade the seam allowance.
Take care when cutting along the curve.
Remove the extra pattern sheet.
We shall now draw the front sleeve cap.
Spread out the pattern on the table.
Draw a dotted line, as shown, to define the front sleeve cap on the half of the pattern with markings.
Now, cut along the dotted line.
You can see that the front sleeve cap will be cut deeper than the back sleeve cap.
You have now learnt to make a pattern for the sleeve of a top.
RECAP AB = 7 inches AC = 6 inches BD = 6 inches CE = 2.5 inches DF = 1 inch EG = 6 inches BH = 1 inch DI = 1 inch SEAM = 0.5 inches.
To learn how to cut and stitch a top, watch the next series.
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