In this video you will learn how to make the pattern for a Kurti.
The Kurta is a tunic, without a standing collar, which ends near the knees.
A ‘Kurti’ is a version of the Kurta worn by women that is often shorter in length.
It is usually paired with Pajamas or Salwar pants.
To make the pattern, you will need: a Pattern Sheet Markers in 3 different colours A measuring tape a Ruler and a Pair of Scissors .
Start by laying the pattern sheet flat on the table.
Remember that the pattern here represents only one half of the garment, as it will be used to cut the fabric ‘on fold’.
The measurements used here are for a ‘small’-sized garment meant for an adult.
To adapt this to your own size, you will need to take the following measurements.
The Waist circumference The Hip circumference The Bust circumference The cross back length The Arm hole depth The Sleeve length And the Hollow-to-hem Length.
Plot out the following points as illustrated.
We shall start by marking the main guidelines.
Mark point B, 30 inches from A along the longer edge of the sheet.
The line AB represents the length of the Kurti from shoulder to hem.
Now, mark point C, an inch past B.
C marks the position of the hem allowance line.
AB = 30 inches AC = 31 Inches .
Mark point D, 7.5 inches from A and perpendicular to AB.
AD = 7.5 inches
Now, mark Point E, 7.5 inches from A, towards B.
E marks the position of the bust line.
AE = 7.5 inches
Next, mark the position of the waistline at point F, 17 inches from A towards B.
AF = 17 inches
Mark point G further down, 24 inches from A, towards B.
G will determine the hip line.
AG = 24 inches.
You can now mark the remaining points perpendicular to AB to determine the varying circumference of the Kurti.
Mark point H, 10 inches from E.
EH = 10 inches.
Mark point I, 7.5 inches from F.
FI = 7.5 inches
Mark point J, 11 inches from G.
GJ = 11 inches .
Mark point K, 12 inches from B, to define the hemline.
BK = 12 inches .
Mark point L, an inch below K and perpendicular to AC, to define the hem allowance line.
Now, connect these points along the width of the sheet, by drawing the lines CL, BK, GJ, FI and EH.
You can now proceed to draw the layout for the armhole and the neckline.
Start marking point M, 7.5 inches from E, towards H.
EM = 7.5 inches
Connect the points D and M, as shown.
Now, mark point N, 3 inches from A, towards D, to define the width of the neckline.
AN = 3 inches .
Mark point O, 6 inches from A, towards B, to set the drop of the front neckline.
AO = 6 inches.
Now, draw a 6 inch line parallel to AO, from N, down to the point P.
This completes the layout that will guide the drop of the front neckline.
Connect the points NP and PO.
NP = 6 inches .
Now, mark point Q, 4 inches from A, towards B.
Draw a perpendicular line from Q to the line NP.
AQ = 4 inches .
This line marks the drop of the back neckline.
We shall now define the shoulder line along with the armhole lines of the kurti.
To do this, mark a point R, 0.5 inches from D, towards M.
DR = 0.5 Inches
RN define the shoulder line of the garment.
Mark point S, 1.6 inches from M, towards D.
Now, mark point T, 0.6 inches from S and perpendicular to the line MS, as illustrated.
TS = 0.6 inches MS = 1.6 inches
Draw an arc from D to H that runs through S.
This is your back armhole line.
Now, draw a second arc from D to H that runs through T.
This is your front armhole line.
You may now define the side seam along with the necklines of the kurti.
Mark points U and V, half an inch above points L and K, respectively.
You may now draw the side seam of the garment.
Start by drawing a line from H to I.
Extend the line from I to J.
Make a curve in the line from J to U.
When drawing freehand, make sure you correct any errors that appear in the line.
Curve the ends of the hem by drawing a small arc from U to C and another from V to B, as shown.
Now, draw an arc, as shown, from N to Q, and another from N to O.
These arcs will define the curve of the front and back necklines.
You may now mark the allowances for the seam and the hem of the Kurti.
Using a second colour, mark a series of points half an inch from the side seam line.
Once this is done, connect the points with a dotted line.
Shade the intermediate area to demarcate the seam allowance.
Seam = 0.5 inches.
Now, use a third colour to shade the hem allowance, including the curve at the end of the hemline.
You can now start cutting the pattern along its outline.
Make sure that you cut along the smaller arc from N to Q at the neckline.
Remember to cut along the shoulder line of the pattern from N to R.
Verify the dimensions and shape of the pattern.
You have now learned to make the pattern for the bodice of a Kurti.
Recap AB = 30 inches AC = 31 Inches AD = 7.5 Inches AE = 7.5 Inches AF = 17 Inches AG = 24 Inches EH = 10 Inches FI = 7.5 Inches GJ = 11 Inches BK = 12 Inches EM = 7.5 Inches AN = 3 Inches NP = 6 Inches AO = 6 Inches AQ = 4 Inches DR = 0.5 Inches MS = 1.6 Inches ST = 0.6 Inches SEAM = 0.5
Watch the next video to learn how to make a pattern for the sleeves!
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